Before Christ, Alberobello to Gravina

Before Christ

Sorry for the delay on this post as we had writers block. I think we're good to go now. We are actually abit further into the trip than this blog represents so the next one will be out shortly.

It was a dark overcast day when we left Alberobello. It was a fairly short ride but we wanted to get to Gioia del Colle as fast as possible so instead of 50km on the back roads with hills we elected to ride 40Km, less hills, but more traffic. The road was quite narrow so cars and trucks made for a tense ride. Lots of curves, short hills and a overcast sky, but it's nice to see that Italy is using some alternative energy with the use of wind turbines and fields of solar panels.   

We made it to Gioia del Colle before the rain hit again. Fortunately we've managed to dodge the rain on almost all our rides so far. Gioia del Colle was a small, more modern on their standards, town. We stayed in the lovely B&B JSuite. We stored our bikes in the owners great, great grandfather's workshop built in 400AD. We had great small bites and wine right next door to the B&B with a wonderful comfortable atmosphere we haven't seen before. In our travels we have only been seeing places for alcoholic drinks, besides restaurants, in coffee shops. It is like having a martini at a Starbucks. It just seems different than we're used to. There was a fair amount of the rain here so we didn't really have a chance to explore much. Maybe next time!

Because of the heavy traffic the day before we elected to take the back roads to Matera. Much better, but we had brutal headwinds of maybe 40kph, so an easy 40Km ride took double the time. We're getting good at hills though. The last climb into Matera wasn't so bad as we went the long way around to avoid the very steep grade. The grade was not bad but the large trucks, buses and speeding cars were. A ride through city streets, which were crazy with cars, cobbles and pot holes took us to meet the owner of the apartment we were renting. He then took us down 75 steps to our apartment.

Shortly after arriving in Matera.

                    

Then historical Matera. WOW! The most amazing place we think we've seen - anywhere. Atleast historically. The city spans two natural sassi's, or amphitheaters. Beneath the houses and churches there is a maze of underground tunnels, cisterns to collect water and frescoed churches carved into the rock. Some dating back to Roman times 300 BC. Sorry no pictures allowed. 

Matera, city of steps.

Many dwellings can be seen in the rocks all around the area that we were able to explore with a hike down and across a suspension bridge over the river. There is evidence that the caves have been continuely lived in since prehistoric times up until the 1950's. At that time the city of 16,000+ people were evacuated to improve the sanitation and renovate the area.  The return of the people in the 1980's has restored the traditional use, but it seems like most of the city is still vacant.

Jim sitting in a catacomb carved in the stone where they set dead priests to dry and mummify. 

Mel Gibson's "Passion of Christ", along with many other movies were filmed here. I can certainly see why. 

A church carved in the stone.

BUT then we have 75 steps back up from our apartment to leave. 

Okay! From Matera we headed to Grivina. The road was less traveled and much more relaxing. Some short hills through agricultural areas with expansive views. Grivina is a mini Matera without the tourists. It's situated high on a bluff with many caves once home to many people hundreds of years ago, like Matera.

Cave dwellings in Gravina

Ancient Bridge in Gravina to cave dwellings and cave churches.

In Gravina we had the most amazing meal, at of all places called Momma Mia's. Truffle pasta to die for! The truffles found locally in the area and sold to the restaurant, not to be found in any shops. When Devon flirted with the owner about how good it was he gave us several truffles to take with.  They had a container full, worth who knows how much! Fantastic!

Devon's scrumptious truffle pasta.

Easter was a lively event in Grivina with thousands of people of all ages wandering the streets. For outsiders it didn't seem so much a religious holiday, but a big get 

together for families and friends, especially for all the woman in their 3" spike high heels. We did however attend a late night mass. We stayed as long as we could but left before communion. It would have been Jims 1st in many a decade. The bells rang and rang and rang. We didn't time them but we think they rang for 15 minutes on the half hour. You would have loved it Don J.

Crowded streets of Gravina. Busy till well after midnight.

Late night Mass. 

The bell tower that actually swings the bells instead of a bell hammer hitting the bell on the outside.

For some unknown reason we can't seem to purchase the map up anymore. So you can check out this route on Bikemap: http://www.bikemap.net/en/route/3366828-bari-to-gravina/

Next episodes -Trani on the Adriatic.